John Patrick – Sweet but in a Good Way – SS2014

John Patrick - Sweet but in a Good Way
John Patrick – Sweet but in a Good Way

That’s sweet” is one of the killer put downs of everyday life.
Sweet” hissed through gritted teeth accompanied by a  knowing nod is a cooler person than me looking at something they desire.
Sweet but in a good way‘ though is me trying to say in as unpatronising way as possibile that I like this collection.

Of all the collections I’ve scanned from NY SS14 so far its the one that’s lodged in the mind.  Perhaps its the HUGE trousers (see the earlier Joke post here).  Perhaps its that I like the idea of the ‘The return of the baggy’ but keeping the fabric tight on the natural waist as if to say “I’m not hiding anything under here“.  For me the whole collection works.  there are no stray bits, I like the girl John Patrick has presented me.  Not enough to date – she’s far to sweet for that – But in a good way – Yes?

See the collection here

PS.  A distant echo of Stella?

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Auspicious Moments in Fashion – London Denim – The Huge Look

London Denim - The Huge Look
London Denim – The Huge Look

In 1947 Dior swept wartime austerity under the carpet and launched The New Look onto a fashion starved world.

Now in 2013 ‘He’s A Talented Boy‘ brings you a London Denim exclusive “The HUGE Look”.

Speaking from his North London Apartment this afternoon Creative Director Simon King said

Of course the real credit has to go to an elite creative team I put together in the playground this morning.  Their brief was to bring me somthing cool fresh and new.  They have not let me down.  As I said, It started in the school playground.  I was handing out vintage London Denim jackets to the team ‘Short and Curly‘ and ‘……PS‘  when one of them tried it on their Daughter and presto The HUGE Look was born.”

……PS SaysI was like standing there and he thrust this jacket out at Short and Curly,  she took and and tried it on.  Well it was just too large for her – how we laughed
Short and Curly then says:  “Yeah it was too big for me then I had this absolutely cosmic idea – what if I put it on my little baby.  Well you can see the result – how we laughed
Simon says:  “I saw her putting the jacket on the kid and instantly knew it was going to he huge for her – I almost wet myself laughing
……PS SaysAnd thats when I said ‘that’s a huge look!’ All of the birds stopped singing, the children in the playgound turned to look at Simon, the clouds parted and the sun shone down on him
Simon says:  “God it was like a blinding light came out of the sky.  THE HUGE LOOK! I shouted out loud
……PS and Short and Curly:  “Genius!

Its not known how this look will manifest itself on the highstreet, how all the Talented Designers out there will reinterpret this idea for their own collections or how the talented stylists will deal with an idea of this magnitude but you can be sure of a couple of things:

You heard it hear first and this is going to be HUGE!

Read up on Diors 1947 New Look here

Blingtastic Snapback

Blingtastic!
Blingtastic!

A long time ago I used to customise jeans in Harrods.  This involved lots of ripping, occasional bleaching and always lots of crystal, gold and silver nail heads and an incredible amount of patience.  Over a two year period I attached over 4,000,000 beads, crystals, studs, rivets, nail heads to all types of garments.  Yesterday Mrs K the owner of Electric Tees called for a little favour…”I’ve a shoot on Monday and need a cap, beanie and headphones blinged up!  is there anything you can do?  Pleeeeeassee?”

Two hours later the peices were on a bike heading to central London and I was on the sofa with a wet towel covering my head suffering flashbacks to some of the more outlandish Harrods customers requests I completed.

Never again I keep saying.  Its a pity my friends have long memories!

London Denim – Buttons Mark 2

London Denim Buttons - Mark 2
London Denim Buttons – Mark 2

Working through the development of the London Denim buttons have selected the core design of the three River Thames.  With colour variations and the loose symbolic triangular relationship it forms its the most interesting  option of the few hundred I’ve generated.  As each button will be hand painted I also like the fact that the design will force quite a tight handed execution.   As too thicker line and it looks like a Keith Haring hommage (See the red, yellow and black execution in the picture)  and too thinner line and it becomes weaker than my Wife has her tea!

Am now working on varnish and finishing options.  All exciting but boring at the same time – how long have I been working on this one detail!!.  By this time tomorrow it will be cracked!

Check out Keith Haring here

London Denim – Buttons

London Denim - Jean 1 Buttons
London Denim – Jean 1 Buttons

I sat down last night to finally get to grips with the creative direction on the London Denim main jean buttons.  Previously I had embossed my London pigeon graphic into the button metal but that execution just feels too heritage.   After all while I appreciate that a jean is a heritage product and I honour that heritage with my choice of stitch, the way I cut my pattern, my five pocket western core look and the care and attention I give to denim choice I feel the best way of breathing life into the products personality is through the attention to those visual details which don’t detract from the jeans overall function as…….. a great pair of jeans.

The back pockets, stitch weight, colour, bar tacs have already been decided and this is the last choice.  Which ever route I decide to go each of the Waldes buttons i’ve imported from Japan for the purpose will be painted right here in my London Denim studio.

You learn a new name every day – Peiran Gong

Peiran Gong - Great Shape
Peiran Gong – Great Shape

Got an eMail from a Fashion PR – Ella Dror and was intrigued more by the PR’s name which may or may take its root from Alan Garners  fantastic childrens book Elidor?  Found on their site a selection of young designers and took a mooch through them and fell quickly in like with Peiran Gong.  A recent RCA graduate she’s boasting a strong silhouette and interesting prints.  Esp like the spray seams and mini capes.  Capes I think should get more attention and I’m totally tempted to start a Cape brand!  Just remembering ice white one Tom Ford dressed Gwyneth Paltrow in for the 2012 Oscars stirs this mans sartorial ardor.

Looking forward to seeing Gongs next outing – she gives great cape!

Check out her work here
C
heck out Elidor the book here
O
r Ella Dror the Fashion PR here

Gong Gives Great Cape
Gong Gives Great Cape

 

Beatrix Ost – The girl with an external view of her life.

Beatrix Ost - Nowness
Beatrix Ost – Nowness

Most people myself included have a pretty much internal view of themselves.  We stroll through life not really caring what we look like as long as its an approximation of “fitting in”.  Our internal checklist for a day gives our look the same degree of attention as the everything else:

– Get Washed
– Get Dressed
– Get to Work
– Get Lunch
– Get Home
– Get Dinner
– Get Sex
– Get Sleep

Black leggings may be purchased by a girl looking for a specific look and worn till they bag around the bum, knees and have holes in the toes.  Cheap jeans sag after the first months wear yet they remain a wardrobe staple for years.  The internal compromise we make is not caring if our look is 25% away from where we ideally want it to be.  Some may try to defend themselves:   I need more time go shopping or I need more money because I can’t afford a new pair of jeans which is fair enough.  These are the excuses I use every day…..

This means that most people leave the house looking 75% of where their ideal is.  In academic circles 75% is a solid C mark.

There are a few people I’ve come across in life or the media who consistently hit a solid A.  These are people with an external view of their lives.  The people who’se imaginations place them in the situations they are going to encounter through the day and then dress perfectly according to that situation.  Its not about money its about the external view they have of themselves.

These special people look at themselves as part of a complete picture.  Their home, work and favourite haunts become places they see themselves – pastiche memoir…….  I imagine their checklist to be:

– Wake to birdsong in silk negligee, slip on slippers make way to window and open.  Open eyes.
– Breakfast on toast sitting on back garden step with sun on my face and little Fido nuzzling for tit-bits
– The dropped negligee floats to the floor outside the shower.  The shower is on cold it invigorates my skin
– Cropped satin dressing gown on and sit at dressing table applying the regime.  Listen to answer phone messages.
– Inspect my wardrobe choice for the day and dress.  Remember the choices I made over the past few years which bought this whole outfit together.
– Make way to mirror and inspect from every angle.  Bend over and stretch high,  understand how the outfit works, what it allows and what it constrains.   Remember my diary for the day and envirsion myself in those situations.
– Make way to window and close it whilst winking at the world saying “I’m coming to get you”.
– Walk through the park to work meeting up with work friends on the way.
– Work,  While taking phone calls stretch and pose regularly through the morning.
– Walk home via the galleries seeing if any new works have arrived
–  Undress while walking up the stairs arriving in the bedroom naked.  Open the window slowly feeling the breeze wash over body.
–  A cold invigorating shower refreshes my skin and mind.
–  Dress for the evening, and retire to the kitchen, open the garden door and cook.
–  Make love, perhaps to myself.
–  Close eyes.  Dream of the perfect colour nail varnish to compliment the day next week when you have to visit the your great aunt in the country.

Today I came across Beatrix Ost who is undoubtedly one of these people.

She has a video on Nowness.   Here