Victoria Beckham – SS14 – One step back

Victoria Beckham - Meets Antwerp.....
Victoria Beckham – Meets Antwerp…..

I just love a consistent story in a collection.  It’s the consistency that helps with my faling in love with the girl the designer shows me.  I’ve loved Victoria Beckham’s entrance into the world of fashion.  Its been completed with a steady hand and a huge conviction.   From the initial showcases in NY to her first runway she’s always traveling in a forward direction despite a huge hostile section of the fashion community willing her to fail.   But for every 10 steps forward (The number of seasons I’ve liked her collections) there is always an inevitable back-step and for me this collection is one.   (The seeds I think were sewn last season)

Half of the collection feels like the shrugging off of the empowered felinity she effortlessly captured in favour of a grope to a more fashion intellectual (Antwerpish) point of view. Style.com’s Nicole Phelps wrote a few seasons ago something like “fashion set is easily bored and likes to move on” so perhaps I’m not part of that set.  I’m not ready for that with this girl just yet.  This leads me to surmise that the negativity I feel towards this new direction is my mourning the loss of the girl Victoria persented me with for 10 seasons.

Style.com has the complete show pics all the answers here
Check out Nicole Phelps biog on style.com – Shes a talented girl – here

Other Thoughts……

I totally understand a desire widen the product range (when looked at in relation to the brand development perhaps means retail is not far round the corner).  After all for the last two seasons the dresses which she caught our attention with now make up less than a 1/2 of each collection however……..

The collection 

For my own curiosity I did a very quick bit of fag packet analysis on previous collections which you may or may not find interesting – Don’t expect this to be 100% accurate:

Victoria Beckham’s – Show collection styles breakdown.

Season Dress Coat / Jacket Bottom Top
S/2009 15
A/2009 20 6
S/2010 20
A/2010 24 2 2
S/2011 26 3 3
A/2011 20 3 6 6
S/2012 20 10 2 1
A/2012 17 3 4 4
S/2013 13 2 10 12
A/2013 10 2 17 16
S/2014 8 8 21 19

Bring your Hot Niece to Work Day – Adam Selman – SS14

Adam Selman - Bring your Hot Niece to work Day.
Adam Selman – Bring your Hot Niece to work Day.

Everything about this debut collection from Adam Selman screams “F**K Yeah” at me.  The clothes, the styling the environment  the bosses Niece.

She’s the girl in my class at school who sat at the back, was bored to death but when the teacher asked her a question she always knew the answer.  In my first job she was girl who turned up in her evening gear before getting changed into her uniform for the day.  When I visit a mates workplace she’s the bosses Niece who’s there on work experience.  She gets in late and leave early but somehow all her work is done perfectly.  Sometimes by other people…..

She’s one cool looking lucky bitch who we all want to hang with.

Hang with her a while her and you’ll not want to leave her…….Here

Jason Wu’s Saggy Tits and Killer Sweat – SS14

Jason Wu's Saggy Tits
Jason Wu’s Saggy Tits

Remembered how much I liked his  last presentation (here) and this season was OK except for the saggy tits.  Can’t look at this pockets on the mesh and thing they represent anything more than square saggy tits. – Sorry…..  I can’t help where my mind sends me….

Then he gives me a great sweatshirt – Some designers eh… they take then they give…..

Check out Jasons saggy tits in his OK SS14 collection here  and check out his killer sweat below:  I want this for Wife…

Jason's Great Sweat
Jason’s killer Sweat

Rag and Bone – SS14 – Or is it……

Rag and Bone - SS14 - Cricket
Rag and Bone – SS14 – Cricket

Having just got back from a morning at the batting cage with Boy it was nice to flick on the screen and see  Rag and Bone sending a few cricket jumpers down the runway in NY.  But even though I’m a sucker for a cricket jumper I can’t quite get my head around the presentation.  Who this girl is and what doe she want out of life?  Why doe she have no real design direction to her look?  I can’d help but contrast the Bony cricket girl with Karls Cricketer Knights last season and the gulf is absolutely massive.

I also look back at the self assured, confident girl the boys presented in fall 13 and am sure she can’t quite grasp the downturn in her wardrobe fortunes.  From a look for every day of the week and every occasion to 34 different Sunday Afternoon looks.  But she does have an appropriate jumper for handing out the lunchtime cucumber sandwiches in the pavilion.

Feels like I’ve seen this all before (Not talking about Karls Cricketer) Its not easy to discern a handwriting, silhouette or product difference between this seasons Rag and Bone presentation,  Zadig and Voltaire, J Brand and Zara…….

Karls Chanel Cricketer here
Rag and Bone show from the guys at Style.com here.
Rag and Bone, Zadig and Voltaire, The Kooples,  J Brand and Zara websites here or here or here or here or here

Monobrow!

Monobrow
Monobrow

Occasionally you come across a photo that stops you in your tracks, picks you up by the scruff of the neck and throws you back 26 years all the way to 1987.  I found this photo today in a dirty old diary at the bottom of an old school bag.  The following years included being held down by a hairdresser mate and his assistant, friends shaving it in my sleep, wife’s consistent eyebrow plucking and the eponymous Jenny Jordan getting her hands on it.

I don’t miss it now but I know that under the skin I am still Monobrow!

 

Red Valentino – SS14 – Long Necked Flower Fairy

Little Dumpling Flower Fairy
Long Neck Flower Fairy

Someone once said “If you can’t say anything good don’t say anything at all’…….MMmmmmm……….

Mario and Pier have spoilt me rotten for the past three seasons with their Red presentation.  Cohesive and joined up.  Presented creatively and with love.  This season someone dropped the dishes and in glueing them back together created a miss-matched dinner service.  That’s not to say that individual pieces aren’t lovely – they are, it’s just that as a whole presentation it’s not as cohesive as the last three.  Different stylist perhaps?  Wrong model choice? Something in the shoot team not working……….

It leaves me hanging………

John Patrick – Sweet but in a Good Way – SS2014

John Patrick - Sweet but in a Good Way
John Patrick – Sweet but in a Good Way

That’s sweet” is one of the killer put downs of everyday life.
Sweet” hissed through gritted teeth accompanied by a  knowing nod is a cooler person than me looking at something they desire.
Sweet but in a good way‘ though is me trying to say in as unpatronising way as possibile that I like this collection.

Of all the collections I’ve scanned from NY SS14 so far its the one that’s lodged in the mind.  Perhaps its the HUGE trousers (see the earlier Joke post here).  Perhaps its that I like the idea of the ‘The return of the baggy’ but keeping the fabric tight on the natural waist as if to say “I’m not hiding anything under here“.  For me the whole collection works.  there are no stray bits, I like the girl John Patrick has presented me.  Not enough to date – she’s far to sweet for that – But in a good way – Yes?

See the collection here

PS.  A distant echo of Stella?

Auspicious Moments in Fashion – London Denim – The Huge Look

London Denim - The Huge Look
London Denim – The Huge Look

In 1947 Dior swept wartime austerity under the carpet and launched The New Look onto a fashion starved world.

Now in 2013 ‘He’s A Talented Boy‘ brings you a London Denim exclusive “The HUGE Look”.

Speaking from his North London Apartment this afternoon Creative Director Simon King said

Of course the real credit has to go to an elite creative team I put together in the playground this morning.  Their brief was to bring me somthing cool fresh and new.  They have not let me down.  As I said, It started in the school playground.  I was handing out vintage London Denim jackets to the team ‘Short and Curly‘ and ‘……PS‘  when one of them tried it on their Daughter and presto The HUGE Look was born.”

……PS SaysI was like standing there and he thrust this jacket out at Short and Curly,  she took and and tried it on.  Well it was just too large for her – how we laughed
Short and Curly then says:  “Yeah it was too big for me then I had this absolutely cosmic idea – what if I put it on my little baby.  Well you can see the result – how we laughed
Simon says:  “I saw her putting the jacket on the kid and instantly knew it was going to he huge for her – I almost wet myself laughing
……PS SaysAnd thats when I said ‘that’s a huge look!’ All of the birds stopped singing, the children in the playgound turned to look at Simon, the clouds parted and the sun shone down on him
Simon says:  “God it was like a blinding light came out of the sky.  THE HUGE LOOK! I shouted out loud
……PS and Short and Curly:  “Genius!

Its not known how this look will manifest itself on the highstreet, how all the Talented Designers out there will reinterpret this idea for their own collections or how the talented stylists will deal with an idea of this magnitude but you can be sure of a couple of things:

You heard it hear first and this is going to be HUGE!

Read up on Diors 1947 New Look here

North Londons Misty Morning

This Mornings Misty Garden
This Mornings Misty Garden

While breakfasting this morning spotted Charlotte the spider sitting in the middle of a dew drenched web.  Wife called out to Boy who instantly popped out to see if there were any messages written in it.  “She’s a hard working spider” Boy commented.

If you’ve read the book or seen the film your life is not complete.

Check out the book here
Check out the film here

This Chicken is NOT FOR SALE

Chicken - NOT FOR SALE
Chicken – NOT FOR SALE

Driving through Burford and stopped at the Antique centre on the side of the road to stretch legs and have a nose.  Fell in love with a great ceramic chicken egg basket.  Wallet out I asked the owner for the price.

“She’s not for sale” he said. 
“Oh”  I said.  Thinking that’s strange,  this is a shop and in shops you display things you want to sell….
“Why?”  I asked
“We just thought it looked nice sitting on that sideboard” he said

Resentment building in my tummy.  – I’m a consumer –  This is a shop –  I live in a capitalist society – I am a capitalist – I WANT TO CONSUME – I WANT THE FRIGGING CHICKEN!

“Is there no price you’d sell the Chicken for?”  I forced through A clenched smile.
“The chickens NOT FOR SALE” he stated bluntly.

Visit the Antiques Centre Here – Don’t expect anything to be for sale though.